An Afternoon with Jim & Susie Butler

A recent visit to the Butler Winery (6200 E Robinson Rd., Bloomington, IN) landed me in good stead with the owners, Jim and Susie Butler, who have been producing some of the best wines in Indiana for thirty years.  But in fact, any visit to this beautiful destination is always a good day and my conversation with Jim & Susie was simply an additional delight . . . rather like pulling the cork on one of their excellent wines.

I did come away with some new insights about Indiana vineyards and the dedication to the craft of wine-making, however.

For example, I have learned from many corners of the state now that the winter of 2013/14 was especially hard on Indiana vineyards, especially some of the less-hearty varietals that could not survive the polar vortex extremes (if you recall) of something like 10-15 days of below zero temps.  The Butlers lost their entire hillside of Cab Franc vines as well as other varietals.  And so . . . like other vineyards in-state, new plantings are in the works, including the possibility of some Norton vines.  (Watch for these wines from Butler in the near future.)

What I appreciate about Jim & Susie is their near life-long dedication to Indiana wines and farming--and they are certainly well-known throughout the state for their leadership. It shows.  But they also love what they do and they are advocates for Indiana growers and wineries.

Jim has worked diligently to create a map of a large portion of southern Indiana known and recognized now as an American Viticultural Area. The Uplands Trail encompasses much of this zone and there are many fine wineries in this area.  Make plans to visit them this spring or summer.

Finally, I learned that Jim and Susie will soon be working hard at bottling new expressions of their signature Traminette and Chambourcin and will also have new blends forthcoming.  A new peach wine, "Butler's Late", carries on a family legacy from the Richmond, Virginia area and is the newest of the Butler labels.  It is an elegant peach wine--light, sweet and crisp--but not overly peachy to the point where the fruit overtakes one's ability to enjoy a glass by itself.  But I will be enjoying my bottle this summer with a bowl of vanilla ice cream.

Butler will also have a new sweet white wine this year . . . and the Chambourcin rose (always one of my faves) is in such short supply you'd better get to Butler soon before this supply is gone.  The Chambourcin rose is dry, but incredibly smooth and light on the palate, not overly fruity, and chills well for a relaxing evening on the back deck.  

Thanks to Jim & Susie for creating this remarkable winery. Always a great day when I can drive your way.
  
~Todd Outcalt      

Appreciating Riesling

Increasingly Indiana vintners are turning to the Riesling grape to expand their semi-sweet or semi-dry white labels.  Riesling is a natural fit for Indiana, as this German-staple grape grows well along the latitudes that are here reminiscent of the German countryside.  But what makes Riesling so spectacular among Indiana wineries is its ability to turn out top-flight tastes with or without a maturity in the bottle.

Of course, German Rieslings have a different taste than Indiana Rieslings, but some of the Hoosier presentations are noteworthy.  In state, this grape will manifest itself most prominently as a sweeter wine, sometimes with orchard flair or spice undertones.  Other Rieslings, if developed properly in the fermentation process, can have a dryer presentation--even mineral in nature--if not articulated in various fruit descriptions.

If you have not tried Riesling before, or have not for some time, give this white a chance.  You will likely discover that Rieslings in Indiana will have more complexity than, say, a Pinot Grigio or a Traminette.  Rieslings will generally have a deeper flavor, with a fruitier tone in opposition to the "grassy" taste of the Pinot or the surgary sweetness of a Traminette.  

Of course, there are variations . . . and all of these can change from winery to winery.  

Recently my wife and I tasted a short flight of some of the Indiana Rieslings and we enjoyed their summery, fruity flavors.  And if you search hard enough, you can even discover to some surprisingly dry Rieslings that can rival their German cousins.

Tell us what you think.

King Cab

Generally, Cabernet Sauvignon is considered the king of the red wine grapes.  Producers can use this grape to create some of the richest, full-bodied red wines.  And there are many people who consider Cab the preferred red wine when it comes to enjoying a glass with dinner.

As far as the world-wide scene, it is now something of a given that Napa Valley Cabs stand head and shoulders above the rest.  The Cabs produced in this region seem to always find their way to the top of the Parker scale and win award after award.  And the Cabs in the Bordeaux region of France form the foundation of these world-class wines.

But many don't know that there are now estate wineries in Indiana producing their own cabernet grapes.  These grapes, tended in Midwest soil and sunlight, are naturally quite different in taste and complexity from those grown in the Bordeaux region of France or in Napa Valley, California.  But from north to south, in state, one can taste the variations in these cabs, and learn to appreciate them for what they are.

We've discovered that northern Indiana cabs (with a much shorter growing season and earlier harvest) lean toward the earthy side of the spectrum.  This is not a bad thing, but cabs form the northern Indiana wineries might be more reminiscent of a Merlot or Malbec, and have a more exposed taste, an immediate taste, that with coaxing, can actually sit well in the glass and hold up well in certain years.  Northern cabs seem to have a freshness, and immediacy, that is more fruity than aged.  In short, these are cabs that have their own distinctions among wine makers . . . and many are surprisingly good.

Further south, especially along the Ohio river valley, one can find cabs of unique flair.  A year ago, we found a cab at Winzerwald Winery that had a distinct taste of cinnamon.  And Huber is creating cabs that are both full-bodied and deep--especially in the Heritage lineup.  

At any rate . . . don't overlook an Indiana cab.  And ask if it is estate grown.  You will be surprised at what you can learn about the soil, the rain, the seasons as you taste these wines.  They really are in in-state gem. 

New Wineries

Although Indiana is not a large state, we do play host to a growing number of amazing wineries.  But because Indiana is not a large state, it is possible to get to any winery during a day trip.  Currently, there are nearly eighty wineries in state, but that number continues to change annually.

And there always seem to be new wineries cropping up, too.

Among the newer wineries in state, check out Two EEs in the northeast corner of the state.  This winery offers a beautiful and spacious tasting room, a state of the art production facility (visible behind glass at the tasting bar no less) and some unique wines.  (When is the last time you had Tannat?)  Although less than two years old, Two EEs has already established a reputation as a top-flight producer and they will only get better.

Options here range from whites to sweet reds, but we can see that Two EEs will make their mark in the bold red categories.  Deep tastes here, with good Cab and Syrah, and growing complexities throughout.

Closer to the heart of Indianapolis, check out Traders Point Winery, located just south of 86th street near Trader's Point.  This new winery features a quaint but welcoming show room, a small tasting bar, and a growing number of labels, including fruity whites and a sweet rose.

Wineries planning to open in 2015 should also contact us.  We'd love to visit and help to get the word out.  

  

Why Indiana Wineries?

Many may wonder:  with so many wine options available today, what makes Indiana wines special?  Or, perhaps, what do Indiana wineries have to offer?

A brief conversation may help to provide an answer.

Over the past three years we have traveled the state, visited every winery in Hoosierland, taken photos, interviewed winery owners and wine makers, and written what we hope will be a definitive guide to Indiana wineries--now totaling nearly 75 establishments in-state.  Some months ago, while we were tasting a short flight of new wines up north, we happened to be joined by a travel writer and wine critic from California.  

Our encounter was pure happenstance, but after introducing ourselves and our book project, we asked the wine writer to tell us what she really thought of our Hoosier offerings.

"You know," she said, "California has large, well-known wine estates with world-renown labels, but so much of the 'look' and 'taste' of the California wineries and the wines holds a similarity.  But Indiana's wineries have a quaint, down-home feel to them.  Every winery is unique.  And because so many wineries are new, a person can always discover a fresh destination and taste just a few miles from home."

We liked her response . . . and had discovered the same in our travels and tastings around the state.  And yes, we've visited wineries and tasted wines in those world-renown regions, too:  Napa, Washington state, Oregon, France, Italy, and elsewhere.  We have our favorites.  We enjoy many tastes.

But growing up in Indiana, we have come to appreciate what our Hoosier landscape has to offer.  We've traveled from the shores of Lake Michigan to the Ohio River valley, cross-hatched east to west, and enjoyed every winery in Indiana.  We have tasted all of the Indiana labels.  And here is what we hope you will discover when you visit the wineries . . . and what you will learn from this blog:

* World-class Hoosier hospitality
* Unique tastes from vineyards featuring Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay--and some of the best Traminette or Cabernet Franc vintages in the U.S.
* Relaxing drives and weekend getaways
* Expert vintners and wine makers
* Beautiful wineries

And don't forget to visit here before you plan your next winery adventure. We would love to hear from you.

Happy tastings!

~Todd & Becky