An Afternoon with Jim & Susie Butler

A recent visit to the Butler Winery (6200 E Robinson Rd., Bloomington, IN) landed me in good stead with the owners, Jim and Susie Butler, who have been producing some of the best wines in Indiana for thirty years.  But in fact, any visit to this beautiful destination is always a good day and my conversation with Jim & Susie was simply an additional delight . . . rather like pulling the cork on one of their excellent wines.

I did come away with some new insights about Indiana vineyards and the dedication to the craft of wine-making, however.

For example, I have learned from many corners of the state now that the winter of 2013/14 was especially hard on Indiana vineyards, especially some of the less-hearty varietals that could not survive the polar vortex extremes (if you recall) of something like 10-15 days of below zero temps.  The Butlers lost their entire hillside of Cab Franc vines as well as other varietals.  And so . . . like other vineyards in-state, new plantings are in the works, including the possibility of some Norton vines.  (Watch for these wines from Butler in the near future.)

What I appreciate about Jim & Susie is their near life-long dedication to Indiana wines and farming--and they are certainly well-known throughout the state for their leadership. It shows.  But they also love what they do and they are advocates for Indiana growers and wineries.

Jim has worked diligently to create a map of a large portion of southern Indiana known and recognized now as an American Viticultural Area. The Uplands Trail encompasses much of this zone and there are many fine wineries in this area.  Make plans to visit them this spring or summer.

Finally, I learned that Jim and Susie will soon be working hard at bottling new expressions of their signature Traminette and Chambourcin and will also have new blends forthcoming.  A new peach wine, "Butler's Late", carries on a family legacy from the Richmond, Virginia area and is the newest of the Butler labels.  It is an elegant peach wine--light, sweet and crisp--but not overly peachy to the point where the fruit overtakes one's ability to enjoy a glass by itself.  But I will be enjoying my bottle this summer with a bowl of vanilla ice cream.

Butler will also have a new sweet white wine this year . . . and the Chambourcin rose (always one of my faves) is in such short supply you'd better get to Butler soon before this supply is gone.  The Chambourcin rose is dry, but incredibly smooth and light on the palate, not overly fruity, and chills well for a relaxing evening on the back deck.  

Thanks to Jim & Susie for creating this remarkable winery. Always a great day when I can drive your way.
  
~Todd Outcalt      

Appreciating Riesling

Increasingly Indiana vintners are turning to the Riesling grape to expand their semi-sweet or semi-dry white labels.  Riesling is a natural fit for Indiana, as this German-staple grape grows well along the latitudes that are here reminiscent of the German countryside.  But what makes Riesling so spectacular among Indiana wineries is its ability to turn out top-flight tastes with or without a maturity in the bottle.

Of course, German Rieslings have a different taste than Indiana Rieslings, but some of the Hoosier presentations are noteworthy.  In state, this grape will manifest itself most prominently as a sweeter wine, sometimes with orchard flair or spice undertones.  Other Rieslings, if developed properly in the fermentation process, can have a dryer presentation--even mineral in nature--if not articulated in various fruit descriptions.

If you have not tried Riesling before, or have not for some time, give this white a chance.  You will likely discover that Rieslings in Indiana will have more complexity than, say, a Pinot Grigio or a Traminette.  Rieslings will generally have a deeper flavor, with a fruitier tone in opposition to the "grassy" taste of the Pinot or the surgary sweetness of a Traminette.  

Of course, there are variations . . . and all of these can change from winery to winery.  

Recently my wife and I tasted a short flight of some of the Indiana Rieslings and we enjoyed their summery, fruity flavors.  And if you search hard enough, you can even discover to some surprisingly dry Rieslings that can rival their German cousins.

Tell us what you think.