As far as the world-wide scene, it is now something of a given that Napa Valley Cabs stand head and shoulders above the rest. The Cabs produced in this region seem to always find their way to the top of the Parker scale and win award after award. And the Cabs in the Bordeaux region of France form the foundation of these world-class wines.
But many don't know that there are now estate wineries in Indiana producing their own cabernet grapes. These grapes, tended in Midwest soil and sunlight, are naturally quite different in taste and complexity from those grown in the Bordeaux region of France or in Napa Valley, California. But from north to south, in state, one can taste the variations in these cabs, and learn to appreciate them for what they are.
We've discovered that northern Indiana cabs (with a much shorter growing season and earlier harvest) lean toward the earthy side of the spectrum. This is not a bad thing, but cabs form the northern Indiana wineries might be more reminiscent of a Merlot or Malbec, and have a more exposed taste, an immediate taste, that with coaxing, can actually sit well in the glass and hold up well in certain years. Northern cabs seem to have a freshness, and immediacy, that is more fruity than aged. In short, these are cabs that have their own distinctions among wine makers . . . and many are surprisingly good.
Further south, especially along the Ohio river valley, one can find cabs of unique flair. A year ago, we found a cab at Winzerwald Winery that had a distinct taste of cinnamon. And Huber is creating cabs that are both full-bodied and deep--especially in the Heritage lineup.
At any rate . . . don't overlook an Indiana cab. And ask if it is estate grown. You will be surprised at what you can learn about the soil, the rain, the seasons as you taste these wines. They really are in in-state gem.
